Back and forth, hither and yon – whether on my habitual trajectory between Touraine and Paris or further afield… destinations, encounters, events and observations I can’t resist sharing.

Nice, capital of endless summer.

October 6, 2011
Nice plage et port

Never made an effort to visit Nice.  When you live in Europe long enough, certain destinations like Ibiza or Prague acquire inevitability – you presume you’ll get there eventually.  It took 25 years for an invitation to celebrate a friend’s birthday to make it happen.  Unseasonably hot weather intensified tourist density, but the city’s irrefutable charm trumped my Cote d’Azur phobia.

Reality matched the improbable cover of a brochure titled “Nice, a natural brilliance” picked up at the airport – featuring a salmon pink building with sunflower window trim and mint shutters, silhouetted against an azure sky behind a fringe of palm fronds.  At sunset, certain buildings seem lit from within.  Graced with miraculous light, the lemon, ochre and terra cotta facades adorned with delicate stucco manage to appear elegant rather than garish.  The mixture of 19th century and deco architecture reminded me of Montevideo, as does the sinuous Promenade des Anglais tracing the waterfront.

Wish I’d experienced Nice before it was France’s number two tourist destination, when the tropical bravura was still leavened with a patina of melancholy.  Summer stretches from May through October and the balmy winter keeps people coming right through.  Heavy pedestrian traffic made it hard to fully appreciate gracious Place Masséna, the old town and waterfront – the way viewing a masterpiece across three rows of shoulders in a museum is dissatisfying.

The historic old town isn’t drained of residential vitality. Locals still shop and gather in cafes lining the narrow shaded streets below the citadel.  The famous flower market running parallel to the shoreline is worth a visit.  Also recommend the vélo bleu, Nice’s answer to the Paris Velib bike rental circuit.  I challenge you to make it up the hill to the Matisse museum – a true three-gear feat.

Sunday morning I witnessed quite by chance a frankly outrageous religious celebration in the Basilica Cathedral of Sainte Marie–Sainte Réparte.  October 5th is the feast of Sainte Fleur, the patron saint of florists and since 1996, it’s celebrated on Sunday closest to the date.  My first impression seeing the riot of red, white and green floral arrangements was that I’d crashed a mafia wedding.  The display was so over the top, adorning every conceivable focal point.  Several priests concelebrated mass surrounded by five flower-bedecked beauty queens seated facing the congregation with rapt smiles on their meticulously made up faces.  It was like watching mass on a carnival float.  Four of the Femmes-Fleurs represented the seasons, and a stunning blond in royal blue trimmed with golden yellow blooms, represented Nice-la-Belle.  The cut flower industry is big business in the region and the event felt like a feast cooked up with the chamber of commerce.  A priest at the end of the service thanked the 30 participating florists and of course the mayor.  Turns out this was the main event of an annual two-day Fête de la Sainte-Fleur festival.

The diocese of Nice is clearly in the vanguard creating special events to draw in the faithful.  The Sunday edition of Nice Matin covered the benediction of hundreds of portable phones earlier in the week on the feast of archangel Gabriel, patron of communication. When questioned whether his blessing had the support of senior clergy, father Gil Florini happily reported that his bishop texted approval.  This week, pets are invited on the feast of Saint Francis.

Bravura and extravagance are synonymous with France’s most southern and Italian city. Long property of the King of Sardinia, it was annexed by France in 1860 and has been colonized since by generations of British sun seekers.  A weekend with the distractions of a birthday celebration was far too brief a visit.  Looks like I’ll be returning, but preferably in March or November.

La Part des Anges:  Found on lefooding.com.  Wine bar favoring natural producers, with daily menu featuring fresh local, organic and artisinal produce.  Rustic décor, relaxed ambiance & friendly welcome.  Lunch, Monday-Saturday.  Dinner, Friday & Saturday.  Limited seating, so reserve for dinner.

La Pizza (Cresci):  Nice’s oldest pizza restaurant in business since 1956. Wood-fire oven, unpretentious décor & terrace on pedestrian street.  Recommend the aubergine. Arrive with an appetite.

Birthday celebrations were held at two chic eateries:  dinner at La Petite Maison in the old town, and lunch at La Guérite on Ile Sainte-Marguerite, the larger of iles de Lérins in the bay of Cannes.

Hard to judge a restaurant from fixed menus served to 80 guests, but the settings were fun and libations flowing. La Petite Maison seems a tad spoiled by success, but La Guérite, enjoys an idyllic pied dans l’eau setting on the quiet side of the island.  The scenic boat ride from the Nice port takes an hour.


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